Ulua and nenue are some of the many marine creatures seen by the expedition members, who visited the three most southeastern of Northwestern Hawaiian Islands aboard the NOAA research vessel Hi'ialakai. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photo: Courtesy of James Watt and NOAA

PAPAHĀNAUMOKUĀKEA
Alo a he alo
Face to face with nature at Papahānaumokuākea

By Sterling Kini Wong / OHA Native Rights Hale

I don't remember ever being rattled at the sight of a 20-pound ulua while snorkeling before. Well, I've also never had one swim right up to my face either. But it happened. It was just one of the many firsts – although not my proudest – that I experienced in July, when I visited the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands as a member of the International Year of the Reef Educator Expedition.

The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands are a place unlike anywhere in the Hawaiian Archipelago. It's a place where wildlife rules, and humans are just humble visitors. It's a place where you can find yourself looking directly into the eyes of what are normally sort of timid creatures in the main Hawaiian Islands – like, I dunno, a small ulua – and wondering if you are the one that is supposed to scurry away and hide.

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In 2006, President George W. Bush strengthened the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands' nearly 100-year conservation history when he proclaimed the region a marine national monument, with strict protection measures, like no-take zones and the phasing out of commercial fishing, all of which are aimed at limiting the impact of humans on the area.

Called the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument, the region represents the second largest marine protected area in the world, encompassing some 140,000 square miles, stretching north from just above Niÿihau to Kure Atoll. The tiny islands, atolls and reefs in this remote region are home to approximately 7,000 species of marine and terrestrial life forms, about one quarter of which are found nowhere else in the world.

Observing this unique, world-class environment was the focus of our 11-day expedition. The voyage was a part of the International Year of the Reef, a worldwide initiative to increase the awareness about the importance of coral reefs and what can be done to save them from their current global decline. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) pulled together 10 marine educators from across Oceania to experience the region and learn about its conservation measures. One of the expedition's goals was to establish an educator network among the Pacific Island participants so they can continue to learn how their neighbors are incorporating traditional rights, knowledge and values into their local management strategies. (See sidebar)

“This was a really exciting opportunity to be able to share Papahānaumokuākea with Pacific Island educators, and let them see the place firsthand,” said Andy Collins, the education and technology coordinator for the monument. “Not only was it a great cultural exchange, but it was also incredibly inspiring to know that the message of marine conservation is so strong throughout Oceania.”

The Northwest Hawaiian Islands stretch far into the Pacific, north of the main Hawaiian Islands. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Map Illustration: Courtesy of NOAA

Our expedition started on July 13, as we departed Pearl Harbor aboard the NOAA research vessel Hiÿialakai. Over the next 11 days, as we traveled from Nihoa to Mokumanamana to French Frigate Shoals and back, we caught a glimpse of what the reefs on Oÿahu may have looked like generations ago, and what can still be found in small pockets of remote areas on Neighbor Islands.

While the monument's conservation measures have ensured that the area's coral reefs will remain rich with marine life, it presented an odd situation for some of the expedition participants. We were completely surrounded by fish, yet we couldn't eat a single one.

I MAOPOPO IĀ 'OE MANA'O Marine educators prepare to land on Nihoa, the most southeastern of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photos: Courtesy of James Watt and NOAA. Efforts across Oceania The International Year of the Reef Educator Expedition to Papahānaumokuākea served as a unique opportunity for the 10 Pacific Island participants to learn about the different styles of marine resource management across Oceania. Every night, educators – who came from Kiribati, Palau, Fiji, American Samoa, Australia, the Marshall Islands, the Cook Islands and Hawaiÿi – gave presentations about the conservation efforts going on in their home islands. What became clear early on in the expedition is that marine conservationists across the Pacific face the same problems, such as climate change, illegal fishing and lack of enforcement. Table coral at French Frigate Shoals. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photos: Courtesy of James Watt and NOAA. Another common theme is getting communities to buy-in to marine conservation. “It's important to get the communities involved and give them a sense of ownership and accountability,” said Fatima Sauafea-Leÿau, a coral reef ecologist from American Samoa. “There's no other way to manage resources on an island. The communities have the traditional knowledge about the reefs and the history of the reefs that the scientists don't know.” Margaret Tabunakawai, a research assistant with the Fijian government, explained that the top-down approach to conservation hasn't worked in Fiji. If the government passes a policy that the communities aren't receptive to, she said, they won't follow the rules. “Decisions need to come from the communities on up,” she said. “So we provide communities with information and wait. When the species start to disappear, the communities come to us. Change isn't easy, but the process works.” A Hawaiian monk seal swims casually alongside 'ulua. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photos: Courtesy of James Watt and NOAA.

“We talked about what we could learn from catching and tasting the fish, to help us see the differences between the fish in our backyards and here,” said Legario “Hanky Boy” Eharis, a longtime subsistence fisherman in Hāna, Maui. “But we're not disappointed because we understand how fragile this area is and the impact that would have on the resources.”

One of three Native Hawaiian cultural educators on the expedition, Eharis was conducting a project to assess what reefs and fish populations should look like in an area almost devoid of human impact. He plans to use this baseline data to help develop a community management plan for the marine resources of Mūÿolea, an East Maui ahupuaÿa.

Eharis said that Hāna's marine ecosystem is comparable to what he observed in the monument, noting that he estimates about 80 percent of the fish species are found in both places. However, he said he was surprised not to see fish species, like moi (threadfish), āholehole (Hawaiian flagtail) and ÿōÿio (bonefish), which are common in the main Hawaiian Islands.

The expedition visited the three most southeastern of Northwestern Hawaiian Islands aboard the NOAA research vessel Hi'ialakai. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photo: Courtesy of James Watt

But what's the biggest difference between the marine life in the main Hawaiian Islands and Papahānumokuākea? “These fish are wild,” Eharis said. “They stay right in front of you.”

There's perhaps no other fish in the monument for which this type of behavior rings more true than the ulua. No matter what their size, they swim around the shallow reefs like playground bullies, eyeing out everything in sight as they pass by. We saw an ulua at Tern Island trying to eat a juvenile albatross that fell into the ocean while it was learning to fly. We heard several stories from the Hiÿialakai crew about how ulua try to bite anything shiny, from spinning speedboat propellers to underwater cameras.

Ulua swim up to examine scuba divers. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photo: Courtesy of James Watt

Ulua are unafraid of human visitors. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photo: Courtesy of James Watt

That ulua behave like this is important. A robust marine ecosystem is supposed to be dominated by apex predators, like ulua and sharks, which patrol the reefs, making sure the populations of each species are kept in check.

In the main Hawaiian Islands, ulua and sharks are heavily fished. As a result, only three percent of the area's fish biomass is made up of apex predators, a far cry from the 54 percent of the biomass they represent in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.

While the natural resources alone made the expedition an extraordinary experience, the cultural elements that were woven throughout the trip added a unique dimension that helped us make a personal connection to the region and each other. At certain points during the trip, like when we entered and left the monument, Hawaiian cultural protocols were conducted to greet and honor the deities and spirits of the area. When appropriate, the Pacific Islanders shared songs and prayers from their cultures to complement these ceremonies.

Some of the many marine creatures seen by the expedition members, who visited the three most southeastern of Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photo: Courtesy of James Watt

Hōÿike, or cultural presentations, were also held on several nights, with educators performing traditional dances and Eharis playing slack-key guitar. A kava ceremony was also conducted on one of the last nights, offering expedition members and the Hiÿialakai crew a chance to say what they were thankful for.

The nearly pristine waters of the monument can teach us a lot about what our reefs once looked like and how much more needs to be done to repair the damage we've caused. While getting a little anxious about an oncoming ulua wasn't my most impressive moment, it's one that more people should have. It may be an indicator that you're swimming in a healthy reef.

Editor's note: Sterling Wong is a policy advocate in OHA's Native Rights, Land and Culture division and participated in the expedition as a media liaison. This part one in a two part series. As one of seven members of the Monument Management Board, the Office of Hawaiian Affairs represents the interests of Native Hawaiians.

I MAOPOPO IĀ 'OE MANA'O Table coral (top) and terns (below) call French Frigate Shoals home. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photos: Courtesy of James Watt and NOAA. Some of the highlights: >> At Nihoa, our first stop, a cloud of nenue (chub fish) swept over the reef shelf, and instead of dashing off at the sight of humans, they completely engulfed us. On our hike to the saddle of the 171-acre island, we saw some of the remarkable stone heiau, agricultural terraces and housing sites left by an ancient Native Hawaiian settlement. >> At Shark Island in French Frigate Shoals, we swam through a spectacular emerald green labyrinth of coral, with what seemed like every reef fish imaginable in abundance. >> On the bird colony that is Tern Island in French Frigate Shoals, we practically had to bob and weave at certain points along the island's runway as terns, boobies and frigates curiously hovered over our heads, swooping down every so often to catch a better look at (or grab) our hair. The island's sandy beaches are popular hauling out and basking grounds for Hawaiian monk seals and green sea turtles, which lie side by side like a family of sunbathers. Table coral (top) and terns (below) call French Frigate Shoals home. [Click the image for a larger view.] - Photos: Courtesy of James Watt and NOAA.